After four days of trade-only limited access, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie opened its doors to the public Friday, January 20, 2017, for the first time in its 27-year history.
So I thought today would be a great opportunity to share some of the highlights of this annual event in Geneva where professional watchmakers make their product and innovation debuts, setting trends for the upcoming year.
Bloomsberg rated its top 12 ranging from $8,000 to $1 million in still life images.
Among them are Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time ($145K), Richard Mille RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1 ($1.04M), and Piaget Altiplano Off-Center Tourbillon High Jewelry ($192K).
The South China Morning Post provided its top 10 with videos, creating a more dynamic experience for those unable to attend the SIHH.
Among its picks, which unfortunately did not include prices, are Vacheron Constantin—Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, Greubel Forsey —Grande Sonnerie, and Van Cleef & Arpels — Lady Arpels Papillon Automate.
I would be remiss not to mention the now infamous watch made of Swiss cheese.
When is someone going to make one out of butter?
Strong Watch Market in Japan
-Therese Umerlik (PA) 1/18/17
Japan is emerging as a top market for Swiss watch exports, demonstrating its resilience against global economic swings.
The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, which keeps tabs on watch exports, revealed double-digit declines to Hong Kong and the United States in the first 11 months of 2016, but not Japan. The island saw a less than 5 percent slide, according to the New York Times.
Japan’s strength in this market is attributed to the many Chinese tourists who would prefer to shop in Japan rather than endure a terrorist attack in Europe or overcome their fear of one happening.
Naturally, the industry is paying attention and watch boutiques have been opening in and around Tokyo over the past several months with more planned this year.
Chinese tourism is not the only reason the Swiss market is exploding. The Japanese love the technical detail of Swiss watches.
Watch enthusiasts, you must find this situation ironic. In the 1970s the Swiss market nearly lost its footing in the watch industry when Japan brought quartz technology to timepieces. Now Swiss watch exports are in demand.
How the tables have turned!
National Watch & Clock Museum Item of the Week: World War I Gallet Nurse’s Watch
by Keith Lehman 1/17/17
Front dial of a Gallet nurse’s watch ca. 1912. Note the large sweep seconds hand used to measure a patient’s pulse. NATIONAL WATCH & CLOCK MUSEUM.
Gallet nurse’s watch with silver case ca. 1912 on display at National Watch & Clock Museum. Background image of a World War I Russian nurse. KEITH LEHMAN.
If you are a member of the National Watch & Clock Collectors (NAWCC), you receive a weekly email from Executive Director Steve Humphrey. Along with information about the Association Humphrey also highlights an object from the NAWCC Museum. This week’s museum object is a Gallet Nurse’s Watch circa 1912.
Photo of Gallet watch movement. NATIONAL WATCH & CLOCK MUSEUM.
A nurse’s watch, also known a nun’s watch, was used during World Wars I and II. These watches have a round case, a white enamel dial, large Arabic numbers with a Red Cross mark below the 12 o’clock, and an easily visible sweep seconds hand. The sweep seconds hand, a defining function of the watch, was used to measure a patient’s pulse. Although this watch has a silver case, they were typically made from steel to ensure durability and to save cost. Because Switzerland was neutral during both wars, Gallet would have produced these watches for all belligerents.
In my research I found a moving video about Katharine MacDonald, who served as a US nursing sister in Europe between 1914 and 1918. Through her letters a story unfolds of the bravery and tragedy of her life. No doubt she would have worn one of these watches during her service.
Ultimate Explorers: A Brief Introduction
to the First Watches in Space
by Dmitry Buzadzhi 1/16/17
Modern mechanical wristwatches are something of an oddity. Nobody really needs them, yet people buy them at exorbitant prices, which sometimes make them by far the most expensive thing a man (or sometimes even a woman) wears on a daily basis. Granted, this is often the case with jewelry and luxury accessories made of precious materials. However, many of these curious mechanical contraptions with hefty price tags come cased in humble steel, with most of the value allegedly stemming from their superb functional characteristics—the very same that, ironically, are pretty much obsolete in this day and age.
To somehow alleviate, if not resolve, this cognitive dissonance, watchmakers and collectors prefer to think of their ticking treasures as links with important and fascinating events of the past, as well as the present. And the history of space exploration is an ideal domain for supplying the watchmaking narrative with vivid imagery and a heightened sense of relevance. After all, isn’t it tempting to have on your wrist something closely related to a rocket man’s tool?
The history of wristwatches in space, as opposed to other timekeeping devices that may have been used on earlier unmanned missions, has to begin with the historic flight of Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, who, on April 12, 1961, became the first human to leave the Earth’s atmosphere and orbit our planet. While on board the Vostok 1, Gagarin was wearing a mechanical watch (cheaper and much more accurate quartz watches did not become ubiquitous until the 1970s). Most experts agree that gracing his wrist was a Shturmanskie timepiece manufactured by the First Moscow Watch Factory, which was later renamed Poljot (“Flight”). The watch, a special model intended exclusively for pilots and not available to the general public, was based on a movement design by the French watchmaker Lip.
This settles the question of the first extraterrestrial wristwatch—or does it? The St. Petersburg-based Petrodvorets Watch Factory, perhaps the only watchmaking company in Russia that still manufactures timepieces with Russian movements on a large scale, has recently begun marketing its line of Pobeda watches, first released to commemorate the defeat of Nazi Germany, under the tagline “The First Watch in Space.” It’s not that they claim Gagarin was wearing one of their products; rather, they refer to a curious incident with a somewhat legendary status.
Gagarin may have been the first human in space, but he was certainly not the first
animate being. A multitude of spacecraft with dogs and other animals on board had been launched prior to Gagarin’s flight. A mongrel named Chernushka orbited the Earth and successfully came back on March 9, 1961. According to a couple of sources, the dog had a Pobeda watch strapped to its paw by Abram Genin, an employee of the Institute of Aviation and Space Medicine. He told the story of this watch in a 1989 interview conducted by the Smithsonian Institution, which is cited by Colin Burgess and Chris Dubbs, the authors of the book titled Animals in Space: From Research Rockets to the Space Shuttle.
The late 1950s and the early 1960s must have been a thrilling time for Soviet rocket scientists, who were racing against time to beat the Americans to space. Who knows what was going through their heads and how likely they really were to equip cosmonaut dogs with their personal timepieces. If the story is true, you can easily afford a direct descendant of the first watch in space legitimately manufactured by the very same factory. The Shturmanskie’s fate was much less fortunate because the Poljot basically disintegrated with much of the Soviet watchmaking industry, and the Shturmanskie brand currently belongs to a different entity.